When does Christmas in Spain truly starts?
Before the main events, the entire country undergoes a gradual transformation. Understanding this build-up is key to appreciating the crescendo to come.
Lighting the lights
From the last week of November, Spain's streets begin to glow. This isn't just a few strings of lights; in major cities like Madrid, Barcelona, Málaga, and Vigo, it's a competitive spectacle of breathtaking artistry. The official "encendido" (lighting ceremony) is a major local event, drawing huge crowds and marking the psychological start of the season.
Simultaneously, Christmas markets (Mercados de Navidad) spring up in main plazas. These are not just for shopping; they are social hubs.
- What you'll find: These markets specialize in three key areas:
- Figurines for the Belén: An endless array of characters, animals, structures, and accessories for the all-important Nativity scene.
- Christmas Sweets: Stalls selling ‘turrón’, ‘polvorones’, and marzipan in bulk.
- Zambombas and Panderetas: The traditional instruments for a proper ‘villancico’ sing-along. In recent years, you'll also find a growing number of German-style markets with mulled wine and crafts.
Spanish Christmas official start: ‘El gordo’
Christmas does not truly start until "The Fat One" sings. The Spanish Christmas Lottery is a foundational cultural ritual.
- Social Contract: Weeks, even months, in advance, the process begins. A bar, an office, or a social club buys whole lottery tickets (billetes) and sells shares (décimos) of that number to its patrons and members. To refuse to buy your share is to risk social ostracism should that number win. It is a nationwide ritual of shared hope.
- Spectacle of the Draw: On the morning of December 22nd, the nation stops. For hours, the children of Madrid's San Ildefonso school sing out the numbers and prizes in a distinctive, hypnotic chant. There is no slick TV host; there is only the pure, centuries-old tradition. The moment a major prize is announced, news crews scramble to the neighborhood that sold the winning ticket, capturing raw, explosive scenes of joy and spraying Cava. It is the official, emotional ignition of the Christmas holidays.


















