Ultimate Christmas in Portugal Guide 2024

The Christmas holiday calendar: work hours and bank holidays

In Portugal, Christmas Day (December 25th) is a public holiday, meaning government offices, schools, and most businesses close so families can spend the day together.

Despite not being an official holiday, people traditionally treat December 24th, Christmas Eve, with special significance. Most workplaces, particularly offices and public sector jobs, typically reduce working hours, enabling employees to finish early—often by lunchtime—to start holiday preparations.

Many companies, especially those in sectors less reliant on retail, close earlier on December 24th. Retail stores, however, often extend their hours as Portuguese people buy last-minute gifts, food, and other essentials.

This custom of reduced hours on Christmas Eve aligns with Portugal’s emphasis on the family gathering known as the **Consoada—**a Christmas Eve dinner that is the heart of the Portuguese holiday celebration. Thus, by midday on Christmas Eve, the country is largely winding down, setting the stage for an evening of family, food, and reflection.

⚠️ There is no Boxing Day bank holiday in Portugal.

1. Culinary traditions: Portuguese Christmas feasts

Portuguese Christmas cuisine reflects the country's rich culinary heritage, with families gathering around tables brimming with seasonal dishes and sweets.

The Consoada: Christmas eve dinner

The centerpiece of Christmas in Portugal is the Consoada, a traditional Christmas Eve meal where family and friends come together.

The star of this feast is bacalhau com todos (boiled cod with vegetables), a dish that symbolizes family unity and tradition. Served with boiled potatoes, cabbage, hard-boiled eggs, and doused in olive oil, the meal is as much about flavor as it is about tradition.

In northern regions, octopus is also popular, while dishes like roast lamb or turkey may appear in the Alentejo region.

Sweet treats for the season

After the main meal, dessert is an essential part of the evening, with classic treats taking center stage:

• Bolo Rei (King Cake): A ring-shaped cake filled with dried fruits and nuts, symbolizing the Magi's gifts.
• Bolo Rainha (Queen Cake): A variation of Bolo Rei, excluding the candied fruits.
• Filhós (fried dough), rabanadas (Portuguese-style French toast), and sonhos, or 'bola de berlim' (light, fried doughballs), are also beloved during this season, providing a sweet and comforting end to the meal.

Families often get together again on Christmas Day to enjoy leftovers from the Consoada or additional dishes like roast lamb and turkey, dedicating the day to togetherness and relaxation.

2. Traditions: religion and family gatherings

Portugal has a rich tradition of blending religious observance with family-centered customs to make Christmas special.

The midnight mass: Missa do Galo

Following the Consoada, many families attend the Missa do Galo (Midnight Mass), a longstanding Catholic tradition that celebrates the birth of Jesus Christ. For religious families, this service is a highlight of the season, offering a moment for prayer and reflection.

Gift giving and amigo secreto

Portuguese gift-giving is characterized by simplicity and thoughtfulness, emphasizing the gesture over the material value of the gift. Families typically exchange presents after the midnight mass on Christmas Eve or on Christmas morning, depending on family traditions.

Gifts are often modest, focusing on meaningful items rather than extravagance and reflecting the Portuguese value of togetherness over material wealth.

In workplaces, schools, and among friends, Amigo Secreto (Secret Santa) is a popular and fun tradition, allowing people to exchange small, thoughtful gifts in the weeks leading up to Christmas.

The nativity scene: Presépios

In Portugal, the presépio (nativity scene) is central to Christmas decorations. Homes, churches, and public squares display these nativity scenes, which range in complexity from simple setups to elaborate, life-like recreations. Portuguese nativity scenes often include natural elements like moss and stones, capturing the rustic beauty of the nativity.

One of the most famous displays is the Presépio do Penedo in the village of Sintra. Crafted in the charming Penedo area, this grand outdoor nativity scene draws visitors from all over the country.

It features life-sized figures and intricate details that capture the essence of the Portuguese countryside. This nativity scene has become a symbol of the community’s spirit and devotion, showcasing both faith and artistry as it recreates the birth of Christ against a scenic rural backdrop.

3. Community events: celebrations across Portugal

Portugal’s Christmas celebrations are as vibrant in city squares as they are in family homes, with festive events drawing communities together.

Christmas markets and public events

Throughout December, Portugal’s cities and towns host Christmas markets filled with artisanal goods, festive foods, and seasonal cheer. Major events include:

• Wonderland Lisboa: A large Christmas market at Parque Eduardo VII in Lisbon, featuring an ice skating rink, artisanal crafts, and Portuguese holiday treats.
• Mercado de Natal in Porto’s Praça D. João I: Known for local crafts and food, this market brings a festive flair to Porto’s holiday season.
• Vila Natal in Óbidos: This medieval village transforms into a winter wonderland with attractions, performances, and holiday displays that delight visitors of all ages.

In Cabeça, a small village in the Serra da Estrela mountains, locals create a sustainable Christmas celebration, decorating the town with natural materials and welcoming visitors to enjoy the rustic, eco-friendly atmosphere.

Regional festivities and unique customs

Across Portugal, towns celebrate Christmas with unique customs:

• Queima do Madeiro: In areas like Bragança and Castelo Branco, communities light a massive bonfire on Christmas Eve, gathering to share warmth, exchange holiday greetings, and celebrate in the glow of the flames.
• Bananeiro de Braga: Friends gather on Christmas Eve in Braga’s taverns to share bananas and sweet muscatel wine, an informal but cherished tradition that brings close companions together before formal family festivities.
• Caretos of Trás-os-Montes: Men dress in colorful costumes and masks, symbolizing the return of sunlight as days begin to lengthen. This tradition blends Christmas with local folklore and the celebration of seasonal change.